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Building a Raised Garden Bed
March 30, 2009

Asparagus sproutsThe two vigorous asparagus sprouts at right got me started building my second permanent raised bed in a year. I've used raised beds in the garden for a long time for growing intensive plantings of onions, carrots, beets, and such. But I had never put in any permanent raised beds, always just building a plateau of raised soil for the plantings.

The reasons for building a permanent raised bed are varied. Some folks just like the appearance and order of a garden or flower bed neatly contained with landscape timbers.

A raised bed may also be necessary to control soil erosion. Our first raised bed (shown below), more of a terrace until completed this spring, was built for that purpose. I really don't recommend building a raised bed this large, but this one fits our current needs.

Terraced main garden

Flooded gardenRaised beds generally dry out and warm up more quickly than the surrounding terrain. This drying can allow the gardener to get back into the garden more quickly after heavy rains. It is especially valuable in the spring when frequent rains make getting cool weather crops into the soil difficult. The photo at right is of our big raised bed and our non-raised, older garden patch after a heavy, spring rain.

Narrow raised bedI guess I've saved what I think is the best reason for building a permanent raised bed for last in my list. Long, narrow raised beds allow the gardener access to the full bed in any weather.

The raised bed at left is our asparagus patch. It's inside width is 42 5/8", which is actually a little wide for easy access. But even with that dimension, I can reach in from the ends or the sides and work any part of the raised bed without stepping into it.

Intensive plantingWith a larger raised bed such as our main garden plot, one still has all-weather access along the sides of the raised bed, but "walking boards" are necessary to reach the interior of the bed in wet conditions.

The section shown at right from our main garden plot produced a succession of good crops last summer. The spring intensive planting of onions, carrots, beets, and more onions was easily accessible from the side and via walking boards on the interior. We followed the spring planting with a crop of lettuce that lasted until Thanksgiving with the aid of a portable cold frame. Of course, that part of the garden plot had served for several years as our composting area, as the slope and subsequent erosion discouraged other efforts there. It didn't require a lot of fertilizer!

I didn't get around to fully enclosing the main garden until this spring (2009). Once done, I still had several of the 6"x6" timbers left and put them around our asparagus patch.

Finished main bed

Since our main plot in the Senior Garden suffered both from soil erosion and standing water at times, I also added a dry sump near the middle of the patch. A dry sump is simply a homemade drain where you dig as deep as you can with a post hole digger and fill the hole with coarse builders' sand. It isn't fancy, and it certainly isn't a perfect drain, but it helps dry things out in the middle of the plot.

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plot in 2004Our asparagus bed is located on some gently sloping ground at the corner of our property that in the past has grown acceptable crops of tomatoes and broccoli. I deep dug the plot in 2006, mixing copious amounts of composted cow manure, peat moss, bone meal, and lime into the soil before transplanting asparagus plants I'd grown from seed into it.

Asparagus 2008With all the soil amendments added, including eight, forty pound bags of composted cow manure added last fall, the soil level of the plot was well above the surrounding area. I'd used a couple of old boards to hold most of the soil in place, but it was obvious this spring that something better was needed.

TwineI already had some of the required treated timbers on hand, so I decided to go ahead and build a permanent raised bed for our asparagus. My first step in building the bed was to extend the true north-south line I'd built our main raised bed on. I used stakes and twine to extend the north-south line to and past the site for the new raised bed.

Then I scraped away the topsoil with a garden spade to create a level surface for the first landscape timber. I first only dug down about an inch or so, but later went down about 2 1/2" for the first timber. I originally thought I could use just one level of 6"x6" treated timbers (actual size 5 1/2" x 5 1/2") to enclose the area. Lacking surveyors tools (or skills) to accurately survey the slope involved, I later realized a second layer of timbers would be required on the high side, as the base would disappear into the soil.


I was able to cut the cost of the project a little by using 4"x6" treated timbers for the second level of boards.

LevelIt's really, really important to make sure that first board or timber goes in level (both ways). On projects such as this one, you definitely need a good level Mine wasn't terribly expensive, as I picked it up several years ago off the sale table at a local hardware store. It also helps to have both a 48" and a 12" level, although one can do the job.

I generally don't get my trench level on the first try and end up rolling the timber in and out of the trench as I add or remove soil to level it. I also keep a bag of builders' sand around to make filling the low spots a bit easier.

Having been humbled a bit (and made a good bit poorer by the acquisition of the second level of timbers) by my mistake on the slope of the bed, I used my carpenter's square to set my string at a right angle for the first perpendicular side before anchoring the first timber. I dug and leveled the trench for the timbers and placed the base and one top timber to be sure it was all going to work out right.

I read somewhere online that a good way to anchor landscape timbers was to use rebar. Rebar are iron rods used to reinforce concrete. One of our local hardware stores carries precut sections of rebar that measure 3/8"x22". That proved to be an ideal size for firmly anchoring the timbers on our raised beds. Note that I later found a way to cut the cost of rebar. I now buy it in ten foot pieces and cut it with a hacksaw to the desired length. It's not hard. I cut half to two-thirds of the way through the rebar and snap it off.

Rebar diagramThe first board was anchored with three angled pieces of rebar. I angled two of the pieces against the expected force of the soil inside the new bed with the other piece angled the opposite way just for good measure. I use a long, 3/8"x16" spade wood bit to drill through the timber before hammering in the rebar with a two handed short handled sledge.

Update (4/30/2023):

After fourteen years in the ground, the pressure treated landscape timbers around our asparagus bed had pretty well rotted out! I didn't realize the possible cause until a newer seven year old herb bed had a couple of top cedar timbers loosen and other areas showing rot. I think the cause was water getting into the wood through the holes drilled for the rebar.

While the asparagus bed timbers are pretty much beyond saving, the cedar timbers around the herb bed got a correction. I added new rebar to the loose timbers and used a rebar punch to push the rebar about a half inch deep into the tops of the timbers. I did the same with all the old rebar points. Then I filled them with a waterproofing caulk. The caulk is just an experiment, but the rebar drill holes have been where the rot has started in both our pressure treated and cedar timbers.

Timbers rotting at rebar points Rot around rebar A fix ??

TwineLet me get back to the string a bit here. The sides of my raised bed were approximately two, eight foot timbers long. To get the side straight, it was necessary to use stakes and twine to keep my sides straight.

Once I had the first timber in level, I actually laid two layers of timbers, the 6"x6" as the base topped by a 4"x6" that overlapped the end piece, and anchored them both in with rebar hammered straight down. On our first raised bed, I anchored the base pieces first and ended up using a lot more of the rebar than may have been necessary.

Some of the photos below are from our main plot raised bed construction, but give a good look at rebar going in both at an angle (inset) and straight down.

Rebar going in

I'll add here that while my cordless drill is quite handy, I did string heavy duty extension cords to the building site for the asparagus bed. I found that I exhausted the battery pack on the drill after about 4 holes through the doubled timbers. Since I had to use my circular saw to start my cuts on the timbers, I needed power at the site anyway. Using an old corded drill speeded my progress considerably.

I really didn't have to do much cutting for this project. When I did, I used the circular saw to cut on each side of the 6" timbers and finished the cut with my chain saw. I would have never thought of that on my own, but years and years ago, I worked as a carpenter's assistant for one summer. We were cutting heavy rough cut ceiling beams and lacked a saw that could make the cut. So my carpenter boss asked, "Do you have a chain saw?"

Since the 6"x6"x8' timbers were actually 96 5/8" long, I cut one timber for the end pieces. That's how I came up with a 42 13/16" inside dimension for the bed. If I were building a raised bed just for vegetables or flowers, I'd make the inside width an even three feet to make everything easy to reach. As it turned out, 42" was just barely enough, as my original planting of asparagus roots had spread beyond the original 3' wide bed, and I ended up cutting roots as I dug out to lay the timbers on each side!

Overlapped cornersOverlapping side timbersThe rest of my cutting was just a matter of trimming the final timbers laid for length. Do note that I overlapped my corners for added strength. Overlapping the corners also made the side pieces overlap, adding strength to the sides and making it much easier to keep the sides straight.

That's about all there was to it, although it took considerable time to get the rest of the raised bed done. The finished product is something that will serve our purposes well. I ran outside as I was finishing up this feature and snapped a shot of the Senior Garden, showing the asparagus bed in the foreground, the main Senior Garden, and our original garden plot at the back. The original garden plot has now been retired, replaced by two narrow raised beds with an intrior width of 36".

Our Senior Garden


  • 5 - 6"x6"x8' Treated (non-arsenic) timbers
  • 5 - 4"x6"x8' Treated (non-arsenic) timbers
  • 27 pieces of 3/8"x22" precut rebar
Tools Used:
  • Spirit level(s)
  • Hand sledge
  • Tape measure
  • Circular saw
  • Power drills (cordless and corded)
  • Chain saw
  • Carpenter's right angle
  • Combination Square
  • Garden spade
  • Garden shovel (for backfilling)
  • Wheelbarrow and garden cart
  • Twine and wood stakes

I looked around the web just a little bit after completing this feature to see what else was out there about building raised beds. Not everyone will want to invest as much as I have in my raised beds, and some may want circular or irregular raised beds for landscaping purposes.

Here's what I found:

There are also lots of commercial options for putting in a small, raised garden bed. Amazon, the Home Depot, Target, and Walmarticon all offer fairly reasonably priced kits for 4'x4' and 3'x6' raised garden beds. Shipping lumber can get a bit expensive, though, so you might want to take a peek at the ads and then design your own raised bed from what you see in the ads.

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Let me add a word or two about treated lumber. The old CCA (chromated copper arsenate) treated lumber or timbers have the danger of leaching arsenic, a carcinogen, into your soil. Most treated timbers sold today should be ACQ labeled (usually with the notation saying "no arsenic").

From the EPA site:

ACQ is a water-based wood preservative that prevents decay from fungi and insects (i.e., it is a fungicide and insecticide)...The different formulations allow flexibility in achieving compatibility with different wood species and end use applications. All ACQ types contain 2 active ingredients which may vary within the following limits: copper oxide (62%-71%), which is the primary fungicide and insecticide, and a quaternary ammonium compound (29%-38%), which provides additional fungicide and insect resistance properties.

Do note that Miles McEvoy, who works in organic certification with the Washington State Department of Agriculture, has said that no pressure-treated wood is allowed in soils used to grow organic food. Are Pressure Treated Woods Safe in Garden Beds by Phil Wood (no relation) gives some alternatives to ACQ treated timber if you're still a bit wary about using it.

Since this is a Senior Gardening feature, let me add a personal comment here. After manhandling the heavy treated timbers and then hammering in twenty-seven pieces of rebar in two days, my hands were swollen and my whole body ached for days afterward! It would be better to recruit a strong helper for such a job than doing it by oneself (as I did).

Update (5/2/2010)

HeavingAfter two winters, I noticed some minor heaving of the timbers in our large raised bed from winter freezing and thawing. The heaving only occurred where the timbers were one deep. Timbers that were stacked two high experienced no heaving at all. If I were to redo this project, I'd probably sink a short stub of timber under any junction of single deep timbers to prevent heaving.

Of course, the asparagus raised bed was all two deep, so it didn't heave at all! But the end pieces began to rot out after ten years in the ground!

Update (6/12/2010)

Paul Calback's raised bedsPaul Calback shared his experience in building a raised bed for asparagus with me recently. Paul used 2x6s for his raised bed. Since this feature is already way too long, I shared his email and photos on my garden blog. It looks like a viable and possibly cheaper option than what I chose.

Update (9/17/2010)

I added one more raised garden bed in our main gardening area this week. It's quite similar to our asparagus bed in construction, although I did change the dimensions a bit.

Our new raised bed measures 48" wide on its outside dimension. Subtracting the width of the timbers, it leaves about 36" of usable gardening space inside. It's approximately 16' long (15' interior), consistent with our other two raised beds in the area. I went with a slightly narrower raised bed this time, as I've found it a bit difficult getting to the center of our asparagus bed from the side during the summer. The lush growth of asparagus hinders access, but a shorter reach in the new bed will be helpful. And of course, a 48" outside width allowed me to cut the end cap pieces from just one timber, helping hold the cost down just a bit.

New riased bed

The new bed also is a bit higher than our asparagus bed. As you can see in the photo above, I haven't finished backfilling around the outside as yet. But even on the one end I did backfill, I needed a couple of lumber scraps to drive the rototiller into the new bed.

Main gardenAnd for some reason, I ended up using a lot more pieces of rebar to anchor this bed. That may be because I anchored the base first and then drove more rebar through the top and anchor timbers.

The "fill" for this bed was rather deluxe. I had lots of peat moss and screened compost available, so they were mixed with the existing soil to make what I hope will be an ideal growing medium.

We still have just a bit of our main garden not in raised beds. There's actually room for a wide aisle and one more narrow raised bed, probably similar in size to the one I just put in. But that will have to wait a bit, unless the cash fairy visits soon. Timbers are really expensive!

One More Bed (4/2/2015)

Full load of compost
Layering peat moss and compost

Laying base of raised bedIt has taken a year, but I realized that I hadn't updated this page to reflect what may be a final raised garden bed on our property. I got started leveling ground and laying the base timbers for the bed on March 31, 2014, finishing the project the next day.

The new bed is another with interior dimensions of 3' x 15' and sits beside a previous bed of the same size. The area for the bed is on part of what was the original garden plot when we moved to our Senior Garden. All the years of gardening have caused the soil there to settle considerably, despite all the soil amendments we had added to the area. Building the bed allows us to continue gardening an area that often is too wet for any gardening activity.

The actual construction of the bed was the same as its nearby twin, described above. I again used 6"x6"x8' treated landscape timbers for the base, topping them with 4"x6"x8' timbers.

Differences this time around were that I had a nearly brand new 4x4 truck to haul materials, and I'd found a new source for good compost with which to fill the bed. The compost was mixed with a couple of bales of peat moss and the native, underlying soil.

Starting to transplant broccoliThe soil in the new bed got to settle for a whole week before I transplanted what would turn out to be a fabulous crop of broccoli and cauliflower. Defying proper crop rotation, we seeded the bed to kale after the broccoli and cauliflower came out. We got lucky on that one and got a good crop, although I'd prefer not to tempt fate in the future by growing two brassica crops in a row in the same area.

Transplanting cauliflowerThe area around the new raised bed is still low and subject to standing water after a heavy rain. But by using walking boards and/or farm boots, the bed can still be worked in pretty wet conditions.

As I write this update on April 2, 2015, we're getting some pretty heavy April showers outside. Fortunately, I'd tilled the bed in the fall and covered it with grass clipping mulch for the winter. In mid-March, I pulled back the mulch and seeded the bed to tall, early peas, which were just beginning to break the soil surface yesterday.

The ground around the raised bed when I seeded the peas was a muddy mess, but the raised bed was just about perfect for planting (other than the soil still being frozen here and there). That's one of the big advantages of raised beds. They tend to dry out more quickly than standard, non-raised garden plots. And of course, you can work such a bed from the side, even standing in mud, without damaging the soil structure of the raised bed.

With four raised garden beds now available to us, you might think we're done building raised beds. But I keep looking at the area around our shallow well cover, thinking an herb garden in a raised bed might go really well there. Of course, around a water source, I'd probably need to use expensive cedar timbers instead of treated timbers, but...who knows? Maybe the good Lord will grant me enough healthy years to get that one done.

Note (5/12/2015)

I ran across a podcast today from Growing a Greener World that shows Joe Lamp'l building a whole bunch of raised beds using 6" x 6" cedar landscape timbers. Even with our wonderful, current raised beds, I was a little envious of his raised bed construction. Of course, he did his beds on a much larger scale than we did ours and with a far greater budget. But there are lots of nuggets of knowledge on building raised beds in his podcast and in his show notes at the bottom of the page that may prove helpful to my readers.

One Last Raised Garden Bed (1014/2016)

Our new herb gardenFinished raised herb bedI'm getting a little old for the heavy work involved in building raised beds with 6x6 landscape timbers. But I did go ahead and build One Last Raised Garden Bed this summer. This time around, I used 4x4 cedar timbers, as the new bed is around three sides of our shallow well, where I didn't want to use treated timbers. I really couldn't afford 6x6 cedar timbers, but so far have been satisfied with the smaller dimension lumber for our latest raised garden bed.

A Disappointment (4/24/2019)

Rotting treated timbersEnd view of rotting timbersThe treated timbers I put around our asparagus patch in 2009 have been rotting out on one end of the bed. I'll have to replace the deteriorated timbers this fall to maintain the raised bed. One older raised bed, our large main raised bed, hasn't shown similar signs of rot. Some timbers in the big bed that I put in one deep are warping and heaving a bit.


I updated this page today (April 24, 2019) with larger and more refined images, some grammar corrections, and a little new content. I also went to a newer HTML format (XHTML).

In total, we now have five raised garden beds in our back yard. Each one is a joy to work.

Since I've used our asparagus bed frequently in this posting. let me add a link to our how-to on Growing Asparagus.

Also, I've left up the previous version of this article.

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From Steve Wood, the at Senior Gardening
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last updated 4/30/2023